![]() I got these 2x4s from a neighbor who was remodeling their house. When the legs are complete, they should look like this! Assemble the top and shelves I used a flexible right angle drill adapter to attach the pieces together with 2 ½" pocket hole screws. Now I could finally build the frame! The top rung was easy to attach, but the middle and bottom ones were too tight for my drill to fit. Then I gave all the pieces a quick sanding, making sure to soften the sharp corners slightly with a sanding block. Then I followed up with a regular drill bit through the middle of the hole. Instead of a countersink bit, I first used a small Forstner bit that was the same size as the head of the screw. This will allow me to use the same 2 ½" pocket hole screws as the rest of the project, with the washer heads hidden inside the hole. On the opposite side, I drilled a counterbore hole through the middle of each piece. I cut them all down to size at the miter saw, then drilled pocket holes in both ends of all the shorter pieces. These typically don't have any knots, and the corners are square instead of rounded. I wanted the frame to look like metal, so I bought the nicer 2x2 boards instead of cheaper furring strips. You can download the DIY rustic end table plans by clicking the button below! The printable plans include a cut list, step by step instructions with 3D models, and a handy checklist to keep you on track. How to make a rustic end table Download the plans 220 grit sandpaper for sanding between coats of finish.Protective top coat with a matte or satin finish. ![]()
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